Asi vrea sa va prezint doua articole ce descriu modul in care trebuie filat capul de coarda:
A falling climber needs to be stopped quickly, but gradually. By taking in as the leader falls, the moment of arrest is sooner – meaning there is more height (and hence time) available to then let the rope pass through the system, then by giving out, the impact time is stretched out and safely absorbed.
Dynamic belaying involves giving lots of slack – FALSE!
The more slack there is in the system, the further the climber will fall before the rope can start to do its job and the more force will need to be absorbed. Unless there is an obvious hazard that you need to steer the falling climber away from, give only enough slack to allow freedom of movement.
2) Dynamic belaying is about letting the rope slide through the belay device a bit – FALSE!
Arresting a fall requires an almost instinctive response, there isn’t enough time for the fine motor skill required to allow for controlled rope slippage, the risk is you will drop them altogether (note: this can be done but requires gloves, a figure of eight as a belay device, and preferably a back-up belayer.)
In concluzie filatul dinamic nu inseamna o cadere lunga, nu inseamna multa coarda lasata in sitem ci oprirea caderii progresiv, prin miscarea filatorului spre perete, in momentul in care coarda este intinsa.
Si citandul pe Corey Dwan (The Worlds Best Spotter): Pay attention… for fuck’ sake!
