Urban Climber – Adam Ondra Interview

On March 27, in the Spanish hotspot Oliana, Czech wonderboy Adam Ondra did the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi (5.15b) and roughly one hour later onsighted Blanquita—in his own words the hardest of the five 5.14c onsights he had collected within three weeks, plus another first ascent of a 5.15a. When I arrive at 11 a.m. at the boulders of Petrohrad in western Czech Republic, Adam, now 18 years old, is trying a project he thinks to be V15. Early in the morning, he had started the three-hour drive to Petrohrad from his hometown, Brno, together with his father, Miroslav; his sister Kristyna; his girlfriend, Inka; and 14-year-old 5.13d climber Zdenek Ustohal. Continue reading “Urban Climber – Adam Ondra Interview” »

Ghiduri de escalada

Noul ghid recent scos de la tipar intitulat Alpinism si escalada sportiva in Cheile Turzii si Cheile Turenilor este o reeditare actualizata, corectata etc a ghidului publicat in 2008 al Cheilor Turzii la care se adauga o prezentare exhaustiva a traseelor din Cheilor Turenilor.

Lansarea oficiala va avea loc pe 16 iulie 2011 in Cheile Turzii (in amonte la Ovidiu).

Doritorii care nu pot veni la lansare ma pot contacta pe adresa personala (pret 20 lei + TP prin Posta Romana).

Mai sunt dinsponibile ghidurile:

Valea Aiudului (Cheile Aiudului (Valisoarei), Rimetea), editat in 2010 (pret 15 lei +TP)
Alpinism si escalada sportiva in Banat si Oltenia, editat in 2009 (pret 25 lei +TP)

Ca de obicei, pentru comenzi duble, este fara TP.
Dan Anghel

Recall for Replacement: GRIGRI 2

Important news:

If you have a GRIGRI 2 (D14 2O, D14 2G, D14 2B) with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136, stop use immediately and contact Petzl America to initiate an exchange.
Contact Petzl America in one of two ways:
- By phone: 1 (800) 932-2978 (toll free)
- By email: grigri2recall@petzl.com
Petzl will pay all shipping costs associated with this exchange

Anuntul complet il gasiti pe site-ul Petzl.

Petzl GriGri2 Rope Jamming

In certain specific cases (for example, assisting the climber in regaining a high point after a fall, GRIGRI fixed on a carabiner attached to two points, rope climbing, etc.), the rope can become jammed behind the cam. Don’t worry: this jamming does not damage the rope. Our internal testing shows that even with the smallest diameters, the rope remains intact, even if the climber falls. Note also that even with the rope in this position, the cam functions normally and the climber’s fall will be arrested.

GriGri2 Rope Jaming

Mai multe detalii despre acest aspect, cat si solutii pentru deblocarea corzii pe site-ul Petzl. Va recomand de asemenea sa parcurgeti toata pagina cu instructiuni de folosire pentru GriGri2.

Adam Ondra – Chaxi Raxi (9b)

Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi, a massive 9b line at Oliana, Spain in late April. This is likely one of the hardest sport climb in the world. We had Bernardo Gimenez on the scene to document Adam’s efforts and he was fortunate enough to be there for the redpoint. Below is the outstanding video Bernardo edited together, as well as brief recap from Adam. Stunning. Impressive. Inspiring. Absolutely bad ass. Congratulations, Adam.

The Scene Official Trailer

From the director of PURE and CORE, get ready to infiltrate four of the biggest scenes in the world of climbing.

by Chuck Fryberger

Featured Climbers: Chris Sharma, Steph Davis, Nalle Hukkataival, Rob Pizem, Dave Graham, Matt Wilder, Pat Goodman, Dani Andrada, Anna Stohr, Alex Johnson, Kilian Fischhuber, Cody Roth, Much Mayr, Ramon Julian, Paxti Usobiaga, Daila Ojeda